It was around 4 years ago the last time I was in the Revillagigedo archipelago, which comprises of 4 islands: Clarion, Roca Partida, Socorro and San Benedicto. My first time in Revillagigedo was in 2004, which is almost 20 years ago now. Then I was away for two years, meanwhile working in the Maldives, Philippines and Palau. November 2006 found me back in Mexico and visiting Revillagigedo again.
I have done too many trips to these islands to count, but in my most frequent years of going back and forth, I spent 250 days a year on a liveaboard. It felt like Revillagigedo was my second, and sometimes my only, home for many years.
Even if my recent trip to the islands with a film team was not a normal dive trip, I must admit that I still got a bit nostalgic during those 12 days.
So, straight on to the islands and my memories of each one.
Clarion
It has been a few years since the last time I visited Clarion Island. It’s not often that you get here. You need to travel another 150 nautical miles from the next closest island in the Revillagigedo archipelago, Roca Partida, and the diving here doesn’t get as ”hot“ as at the other island.
Still, it’s interesting and I have always wanted to stay longer because I like exploring the unknown. Unfortunately, we had some heavy seas when we were at the dive sites and in the more interesting parts around the island.
Last time, we had dolphins coming to visit us on almost each dive, but no mantas or whale sharks; there were a few silkies, some silver-tips and Galapagos, plus a tiger shark. This time, while the dolphins were there, they didn’t want to hang out. But there were lots of juvenile silver-tips and Galapagos, and even more silkies.
The island was full of boobies; it seems that there are no cats on the island… but there are rabbits that some smart person introduced in the 80’s, according to what I read. There are also two different endemic snakes here, the day snake and the night snake. That is pretty cool.
The Navy guys here are so laid-back and friendly that you feel that you are way out there, and bound with the few humans that are here.
Our time was too short, though. I wish I could have explored more of the island.
Roca Partida
I am the master of selfies… The first time that I went to Roca Partida was in 2004. And have done so many trips to this magical rock since then. For someone who doesn’t go to church often, I regard this as my temple.
I have seen drama and lived through very tough conditions at this temple. I have done dives wherein I had the opportunity to study a mother-and-calf humpback whale pair with an escort. Playing with friendly dolphins and, at the same time, going out and meeting a massive school of hammerheads, then a bunch of Galapagos and fully-grown silver-tip sharks. Coming back to the rock and meeting a whale shark accompanied by around 50 black jacks and Galapagos sharks scratching themselves on the skin of the whale shark. And finishing the dive playing with mantas. ALL IN ONE DIVE!
I could tell more stories, but I’ll leave it with this: I have seen 10 different sharks here, including a great white shark once.
This time, we were alone like in the good old times. I felt privileged. Most of my memories here are delightful, but also some sad ones like the time when a woman on another boat got lost because of strong currents. We joined in the search and rescue efforts; the current that day was ripping. She was found the next day at a depth of around 80 meters (260 feet). She was taken up and put in the freezer to be shipped home. A sad day.
Here is a photo that my good friend, Richard Salas, took of me at Roca Partida.
I always have respect for my church and temple. On every visit, I kiss her hello when I arrive and then I give her a kiss goodbye when I leave.
Socorro
It was a short visit this time. We had a check from the always-very-polite-and-helpful navy guys, who have also helped out guests and crew members in medical situations on numerous trips. I wish there had been more opportunities to explore the island topside in my 20 years of visiting Socorro and its surrounding waters.
It was at this island where I found myself a girlfriend; a female dolphin whom I met for the first time in Punta Tosca. This particular one lay in my arms while her friends chased away a tiger sharks by hitting it hard in its stomach.
“She has skin as soft as yours but has a bigger nose,” was how I described my girlfriend to Tanya. I explained that she was a bottlenose dolphin.
At home, I have a photo of just her eye hanging on the wall. I have not seen her for years now and I miss her, but her family still visit divers to this day.
San Benedicto
I didn’t have the time to dive it this time as this was a trip with a different mission. San Benedicto is probably the best place to see hammerheads, if you dive the Canyon right. It also has the busiest cleaning station for mantas at the Boiler.
I have some beautiful memories here, as well some sad ones. One actually happened in the lower part of the Canyon’s cleaning station. While I was watching a school of hammerheads swim overhead, I put my hand down on a rock without looking. I felt something… Finally looking down, I saw my hand inside the mouth of a BIG snowflake moray eel! This one got startled, but it didn’t bite me. It just held my hand in its mouth and then safely let go of it.
I visited her (I think it was a she) for many years and she always stayed in the same place. Last time, 4 years ago, she was still there. That makes it at least about 13 years that I have been seeing her. She didn’t get much bigger these last years, just a bit fatter and uglier like me. (I read they can live up to 40 years.)
Next time I go, I’m going to look for her. Schools of hammerheads and mantas are okay, but I myself would like to see if she is still there.
Below is an old photo from my trip to San Benedicto 10 years ago, when Tanya had the chance to join me.
Memories of Revillagigedo
There are many more fun memories, but let me tell you about a sad one. One time, some illegal fishing boats had gotten their net caught at the Boiler when we arrived at the site. The net was wrapped all around the rock and in it were mantas, dolphins, tiger sharks, Galapagos and something that I have never seen — 17 thresher sharks that had recently died. (Their eyes were still clear.) They must had gotten close to the Boiler.
We chased after that boat and documented the event. It was one of the few illegal boats that actually got apprehended. This happened in 2006, if I remember right. We lifted too many kilometers of net and lines that almost decimated the shark population back then. The good thing is that it has recovered a bit today.
Over the 20 years that I have been going back and forth to Revillagigedo, I know one thing. The only real ambassadors and protectors of these islands are neither the marine biologists nor the government. Rather, they are the dive boats and the divers that come and visit this magical place.
I salute you, divers! You are the real heroes and the best people to make ecotourism what it’s really supposed to be.
A special thanks to my mentors who taught me the ways of the sea. To the local fishing families, you are always the most humble people and the ones who had the patience to teach me.
